Grinders:

There are several on the web that offer plans. Rob Frink offers parts and a grinder. He also has some basic information on building belt sanders, as well as selling components to build belt sanders. I don't have one, but those to do say that Rob's grinder is built very strong and smooth. There are also Unigrinder plans available on the web. You can see and get ideas from pictures of grinders from various websites, too.

Forge: I am currently using a dragon's breath style of forge. It is a forced air forge with high temperature insulating wool instead of castable refractory. I use kiln shelves on the bottom to help combat flux eating it away. The first time I saw plans for this, is over on Anvilfire.  There are a few plans there, but the simple forge burner is the one that I based mine on.  This forge has seen quite a bit of use and has been relined a number of times.  It will easily reach welding heat. 

Ron Reil has a good webpage with a lot of information on building a venturi style burner. These don't require a blower and are more portable. They are a little bit more difficult to build and tune, but still work quite well.  I built one that has a side arm burner for demos and events.  It's completely portable and runs quite some time on a 20 pound tank.

Treadle hammer: Once I got bit by the Damascus bug, I realized that I was spending a lot of time forging the steel just to get a workable piece with a decent layer count. I built a treadly hammer to help with this process. It was built based on Clay Spencer's design using inline skate wheels. It worked well and damascus was easier to make with it. The amount of space in my shop makes it difficult for me to put a power hammer in there.  There are a variety of plans available to build different versions of treadle hammers.  My hammer was built based on Clay Spencer's design.  I made one modification.  The pivot for the treadle was moved to the center of the upright tube instead of being welded to the front.  It made it stronger and a little smoother.   There are three main plans that I've found, one from ABANA, Clay Spencer's, and a grasshopper treadle hammer.  Jere Kirkpatrick's Valley Forge & Welding offers plans and a kit for those who would prefer that route.

Rolling mill: In BLADE a while back, there was an article about a rolling mill that worked well for drawing out metal. It was supposed to quiet, powerful, and didn't take up a lot of space. I recently built one and have been really pleased with it's performance.  Others have built this mill as well.  A review was written on the mill and plans over at Anvilfire, it's titled Hugh McDonald Steel Rolling Mill Plans.  Contact information to get a copy of the plans are also included in the review.

Post anvil: I started on a 110 pound no name anvil. It worked well for me, but it wasn't the best. I worked on a few other anvils and decided that a heavier anvil would be better.  I rarely do forging other than for knives, so I decided to use a post anvil. This one is about 6 inches diameter and weighs over 300 pounds. I beveled the sides to help with forging bevels. Square stock can also be used, but the scrapyard I went to at that time didn't have any large enough.  The concrete base was formed by removing the bottom from a plastic flowerpot, turning it upside down, and filling it with concrete.  This worked really well to help stabilize the anvil.  It reduced the ringing as well.  It is a beauty to forge on.